Price is not a good measure of how to identify quality clothing.
Okay folks, settle in, I know blogs are supposed to be short but this clothing blog is lengthy. Yes, many of you are asking yourself if any clothing or fashion blog is worth more than 2 – 3 minutes of read time. Well, this one has actual health implications for anyone who wears clothes. So, unless you are a naturist, you need to sit, grab a cup of coffee or tea, and settle in for a NECESSARY read.
The old adage that says “you get what you pay for” is not always accurate but in the case of clothing, price can reflect quality to some extent. For example, some shirts are very expensive because of the name brand or the department store that it’s sold in has to maintain a certain profit margin. Or, perhaps it’s a handmade shirt that is constructed from remarkable fabric with a unique design or pattern, custom fitted (not tailored after the fact) to your body, with an amazing bespoke experience to boot. The price then is justified because of the quality of the product.
So – as a generalization – price can be tricky when determining the quality of the article of clothing. It’s not a clear indicator but can definitely point you in the right direction
The sad fact is, catchy designs and embellishments that are priced to complete with simple plain quality clothing have cost cutting steps in their construction. Some of these cost cutting steps erode quality, and some can be downright dangerous. Take Shein and Temu Clothing for example:
Toxic fabrics in Shein’s clothes: what are the materials to avoid?
Government warns of high levels of toxic chemicals found in Shein products
Taking the shine off SHEIN: Hazardous chemicals in SHEIN products break EU regulations, new report finds
Shein and Temu products found to contain high levels of toxic chemicals
Yes, you got that right. Clothing quality has ceased to be about simply how long your outfit lasts, now it’s about clothes that can give you cancer. All of a sudden, discerning quality enters a whole new light.
Often times, brands earn their position of being known as high quality. This has been done over decades using proven, detailed and painstaking manufacturing techniques that produce stellar menswear, womenswear or children's items. However, what has happened over the last few years, with the enormous and uncharted growth of some companies is the acquiring of quality brands. Once this happens, it’s not unusual for quality to suffer because of business practices such as cost-cutting, labor reductions, outsourcing manufacturing to cheaper companies/countries, etc. When this happens, quality tends to diminish.
With that being said, brand recognition can still hint at you that a particular brand’s pieces are well made. It may require you to do some research beforehand to verify the current state of a brand, but for the discerning consumer, it is time well spent.
Attention to detail is more difficult to quickly notice but it’s a foolproof way to determine quality. To be able to notice small yet valuable details requires you as the consumer and style maven to have done your homework. It necessitates that you do a little reading, talk to your local haberdasher, and other forms of research so that you can know the makings of quality fabric or the different types of stitching that will indicate that something has been handmade or at least machine made to a high standard.
I’ve mentioned handmade a few times and let me explain why. I’m not saying that if an item isn’t handmade it isn’t high quality. However, when an item is handmade, there are usually time-intensive details and require a great level of care that are put into the crafting of the item. It shows that the tailor/seamstress/company/brand/manufacturer didn’t cut corners.
For example, let’s take a quality men’s dress shirt. Look at these components:
Weight/thickness of the fabric
Consistency of the fabric weave
Collar construction; is it sturdy and well made
Stitching per inch (at least 14 stitches/inch) – this is because the more stitches per inch, the stronger the seams will be, thus the shirt is less likely to come apart over time
Is there a split yoke versus a solid panel on the upper back of the shirt? Split yokes have a better fit.
Is there a Gusset (A triangular or diamond shaped insert, as in the seam of a garment, for added strength or expansion) attached to the bottom of the side panels to reduce the stress of form-fitting shirts?
These are all indicators of a manufacturer taking time and effort to make a garment that will last, and these tips apply to many more things than men’s shirts. What is key here is the appropriateness of the cloth and the thickness chosen. The cloth needs to thick enough to wear well without being see-through (unless sheer fabric is chosen specifically to be translucent) and thin enough for heat and moisture control. Clothing that is made with generous amounts of material is typically high quality and will be comfortable, maintain its appearance, and last for many years. Hold the garment up to the light and see if much light penetrates it. The more light, the thinner, cooler and generally shorter life you will get.
Look at buttons.
Whether it’s the buttons on a jacket, blouse, skirt or shirt, it’s a noticeable detail that speaks volumes in terms of quality.
Type of button: Buttons are made of many things, including shell, wood, leather, horn, glass, coconut, metal, fabric, plastic and ceramic materials. Mother of pearl buttons and other buttons from real shell are rarer thus will be more expensive as opposed to standard plastic buttons. While high grade thermal plastic make fine buttons that can give years of service, lower grades of plastic buttons are more apt to cracking and breaking.
Metal buttons are known for strength and timeless appeal, but the quality of the metal means everything. Some resist corrosion with resilience and some will show signs of oxidation in short order. Generally, copper and alloys of zinc make better buttons than iron, which is very susceptible to rusting. Brass, stainless steel and nickel alloys are also good choices.
Wooden Buttons are eco-friendly buttons add a natural charm to garments. Their quality depends on the wood type, finish, and resistance to cracking. However, repeated washing can change the look of the button, sometimes significantly.
Resin Buttons are often used in high-fashion garments and can be molded into various shapes and patterns. The quality of the resin button shows in the smoothness of the mold and the stability of the color.
The type of button is also important. Shank Buttons have a loop on the back and sew-through buttons have 2 – 4 holes on the face. Shank buttons are a must for heavy clothing while sew-through are best for lightweight fabrics and a flat, streamlined finish.
Thickness is also important. Buttons should be at least 3mm thick for best wear.
Buttonholes: Sturdy buttonholes with a high stitch count are signs of a quality garment. For lightweight clothing, the thread thickness is usually the same as the rest of the garment,but for thick or heavy duty garments, the thread should be thicker than that used elsewhere.
Fabric materials (Fibers)
Look for a high content of natural fibers. High quality clothes generally have a high or very high percentage of natural fibers. But don’t be fooled, a lot of cheaply made clothes use these same materials. Although natural fibers are more expensive and don’t always last as long as synthetics, they have the distinct advantage of being moisture wicking and do not retain odors. More on this at my blog https://www.imperialcouture.com/post/the-polyester-of-things.
High quality clothing is often made of wool, cotton, cashmere, and silk. Natural fiber and synthetic blends can be okay, if most of the material is natural. Blended fabric may tend to last long and hold shape a lot better than cloths just made of natural fiber, but natural fibers tend to drape better. On the hangar, a quality garment will still drape well. Also, look at how much the material will scratch your skin? Would you want to be in that shirt, blouse, skirt or pair of trousers for eight hours?
A consistent weave reflects the quality of the manufacturer that made the cloth and should not be underestimated. No manufacturer makes error free cloth. Somewhere, sometime, there will be a problem that will result in a place in the bolt of fabric being messed up. Low quality manufacturers will not care, good manufactures will have some standard for when that section of fabric should not be used,and great manufacturers simply remove the imperfection from production without a second thought.
Fabric Cutting: Many bespoke clothing manufacturers have people that specialize in just cutting pieces from the fabric for someone else to sew together. This is because cutting is EXTREMELY important to a quality garment. The fabric must be cut on the warp. Warp are the yarns that run parallel to the fabric edges (the length of the fabric). Fabric cut the other way (on the weave) will have different stretch characteristics and seams here will twist and you can’t fix it. Cheap manufacturers will think nothing of cutting on the weave, it will use less fabric to make one garment and and lower costs, at YOUR expense.
Zippers: The zipper material can tell you a lot about the quality of a garment. Plastic parts are an indicator that a piece of clothing is cheaply made. Instead, look for metal zippers. For women’s fashion, this isn’t always practical. Those synthetic hidden zippers in the back of your dress generally lie flatter and are much more easily worked, especially if you are alone. On those occasions when you decide that a synthetic zipper is the way to go, look and see how it is sewn in. Did the manufacturer use a zipper that has a thick and tightly woven tape with enough width to allow it to be sewn in securely? If not, it’s a pass. Is the slider well made? Are all of the teeth evenly spaced? Does the zipper slide smoothly? When it comes to strength, metal zippers are strongest, molded plastic come next and nylon is the weakest. Why would you choose anything but metal? Well, molded plastic is weather resistant and nylon has the advantage of being the most flexible, making it just the right thing for that little black dress.
Look for extras. Does the garment come with a spare buttons? Is there generous fabric at the seams? Manufacturer’s try to save fabric by sewing very close to the edge. This is done because, over thousands of garments, the savings really do add up. What it does to you is result in a seam that cannot be let out ANY, and also a seam that, if not serged, can quickly unravel down to the stitching, ruining the entire garment. At key stress areas, does the garment have facing fabric sewn in to strengthen the construction?
A word on serging: The purpose of serging is to secure edges, NOT to sew cloth pieces together. HOWEVER, as serger machines have become more popular, there are 5 thread serge stitches that are strong enough to be used in garment construction. These stitches incorporate a stitch that secures the fabric edge with a two thread chain stitch that actually provides the seam strength.
Is the garment lined? Lining is the material put in between the inner and outer fabric of jackets and similar pieces of clothing. Lining serves many purposes but one important one is to protect the seams. There was a time that tailors and seamstresses took pride in the inside of a garment looking s good and clean as the outside. If you can find this, you are on the right track.
Look at seams. While lining tends to indicate a quality garment, lack of lining does not mean a bad one. For unlined garments, seams should be bias covered or protected by lining and ironed flat. Avoid small seam allowances. Seam allowances are a balance between bulkiness/drape and the ability to alter the garment later.
Focus on good stitch work. Good stitching work is one of the best indications that a piece of clothing is high quality. If the stitch work is poor, chances are that the item was cheaply made and uses cheap materials. Look for:
Stitching work with many stitches per inch. Generally, the more the better.
Extra top stitching.
Buttons and other pieces that are securely sown to the fabric.
Hem work that is fully finished. For example, if the hem appears loosely stitched inside or is lacking thread, the clothing is probably low quality.
Uniform and straight
No missed stitches
No loose stitches
No crooked lines or seams
Make sure the fabric patterns line up with seams
Look for appropriate stitch length
There are a number of types of stitches. The basting stitch is a long stitch that is quicker to and remove. They are sometimes seen in finished clothing and are meant to be removed, either at the final alterations after a garment is purchased or by the end consumer after delivery. These stitches hold labels on the garment that are obviously meant to be removed or to keep parts of the garment from moving while in storage or transport. These stitches are usually lightweight thread, white, and long for easy removal. Aside from these basting stitches, I can think of no other reasons for basting stitches to remain in a finished garment.
Lightweight and sheer fabrics require a shorter stitch length to prevent pulling and gathering while a longer stitch works better for heavier fabrics. Seams done with a shorter stitch (more stitches per inch or centimeter result in a stronger seam, but a shorter stitch can also shred some fabrics. Thick threads need a longer stitch and finer threads need a shorter stitch and a shorter stitch length is better for smooth curves – a long stitch may make the curve look angular.
I have attached a spreadsheet that provides an idea of seam strength to help you understand the importance of stitches per inch/centimeter. (See bottom.)
Final items, look for loose threads, they show a lack of attention to detail. Observe how the garment drapes to see if cloth puckers where it should not and avoid garments that are not washable.
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