I have been asked why we don't use polyester, rayon, nylon or viscose fabrics in our gowns and there are a number of good reasons. First, let me tell you what we are comparing these synthetic fibers to, what we do use. Our garments are made of cotton, linen and silk. The synthetics have some advantages over these fabrics, primarily in their wrinkling characteristics and low cost. On the negative side, there is the fact that polyester fabrics and not breathable or absorbent, leading to moisture accumulation. Some modern synthetics and weaves are moisture wicking but these are thin. Synthetics can contribute to overheating, skin irritation, and odor retention. From an ecological perspective their production process harms environment through emissions and waste. If the polyester is low quality, it may pill, snag, or lose shape. All polyester generates static and in a cold dry winter, constantly zapping yourself or your baby is something you will tire of very quickly. Finally, polyester does not burn, it melts when exposed to flames, and then it stinks.
For the purposes of our products, I want to look at the negatives in light of the items we produce. Christening gowns are not a long term wear item. However, they are being worn by a baby with soft and sensitive skin and whose temperature regulation is not well developed. This makes the problems with skin irritation, snagging and loss of shape something that must be considered. By choosing more natural fibers, we can avoid these problems.
We work in silk primarily because of the look it can achieve, the way it drapes, its ability to breathe and its luxurious feel against baby's skin. It isn't called the queen of fabrics for no reason. Still, silk has its negatives and they are significant. The first is cost, both to buy and maintain. Mind you, the purchase cost difference between a fine silk and a fine linen or cotton Batiste is not as much as you would expect. Another is the fact that silk will water stain easily and these stains are difficult to remove. Silk is also a difficult fabric to sew but we do so because many people want a silk gown. The look and the fact that it will be a seldom-worn family heirloom makes the negatives a lot less worrisome.
Linen has much to offer but one fairly important drawback. It is a tough durable fabric that breathes well to keep you cool and dry, stays strong even after repeated washes, gets softer as it ages, It maintains a delicate appearance and resists moths. Now for the drawback, almost nothing holds a good wrinkle like linen. This means that an iron will be required to keep your gown looking its best. You can get linen blends that minimize the wrinkle problem, but generally you lose that crisp linen look when you add other fibers.
Arguably, cotton is the best of all worlds. It can look nearly as luxurious as silk, wicks moisture well and is breathable. Cotton is also durable and not prone to pilling. Batiste cotton, the most common type used for baptism gowns, is soft against baby's skin and is easy to care for. On the negative side, it will wrinkle, but generally not as bad as linen. With Batiste, steaming can do much to remove wrinkles but to get the very best result you will need to iron it as well.
What does all this mean? For fabric selection, no matter what fabric you choose, there will be a mix of good and bad. Given that the gown is destined to be worn by a baby, it is our opinion that synthetic materials have too many drawbacks for the child and that natural fibers, especially linen and cotton, are simply the better choice.
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